Why Is My AC Not Cooling My House?

So, you’ve got old insulation that needs to go. Maybe you’re renovating, maybe there was a leak, maybe a raccoon made itself a cozy little condo up there (don’t laugh—it happens). Whatever the reason, removing insulation isn’t rocket science—but it is one of those jobs that can go sideways real fast if you’re not prepared.

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Let’s walk through what you need to know to remove insulation safely, efficiently, and without turning your house into a dust storm.

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First Things First: Why Are You Removing It?

If your insulation is wet, moldy, critter-infested, or just plain useless, you’re doing the right thing. Damaged insulation doesn’t just tank your home’s efficiency—it can affect your indoor air quality too. And in Connecticut, where winter means business, that matters.

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Know What You're Dealing With

There are three big players in the insulation world, and each one needs to be handled a little differently:

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1. Fiberglass Batts or Rolls

These are the pink or yellow fluffy mats stuffed between your ceiling joists or wall studs. Common in older CT homes. They're easy to remove—but itchy as hell.

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How to remove it:

• Suit up: gloves, goggles, long sleeves, and a quality mask (fiberglass is no joke if it gets in your lungs).
• Roll it up and bag it. Gently. Try not to stir up dust.
• Use a HEPA vac to clean up leftover fibers.

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2. Cellulose Insulation

Blown-in gray stuff made from recycled paper. We use it all the time in CT shoreline homes because it’s eco-friendly and great at sealing tiny gaps—but if it gets wet or moldy, it clumps up and needs to go.

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How to remove it:

• Rent a high-powered vacuum from an insulation contractor or equipment rental place.
• Suck it out from the attic or wall cavities. (Yes, it's loud. Yes, it's dusty. Yes, it works.)
• Bag the debris in contractor-grade bags. It gets heavy, fast.

Mike’s Tip: Once removed, this is a great opportunity to air seal your attic before putting new insulation in. Think of it as a fresh start.

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3. Spray Foam Insulation

This one’s the tough guy. Closed-cell spray foam is basically glued to your house. It’s amazing stuff when installed right—but if you have to remove it (say, during a renovation or due to water damage), it’s going to take some elbow grease.

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How to remove it:

• Use a reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool to cut it out in chunks.
• Chisel and scrape any stubborn spots.
• Don’t go crazy—sometimes it’s better to replace the whole panel or board it’s attached to.

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Safety First, Always

Whether you're in Branford, Guilford, or somewhere up in West Hartford, remember: insulation removal stirs up dust, allergens, and sometimes worse. Mold spores, rodent droppings, old construction debris… it’s not a clean job.

• Ventilate the area if possible.
• Don’t skimp on PPE—N95 or better masks are a must.
• Seal off nearby rooms with plastic sheeting to keep mess contained.

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Should You DIY It?

If it’s a small area, sure—have at it. But if you're looking at a whole attic or dealing with water or pest damage, it’s worth calling in the pros. At Nealon Insulation, we’ve safely removed insulation from homes all over Connecticut, from old shoreline cottages to newer builds. We bring the vacuums, safety gear, and most importantly—the experience to do it right.

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Final Thought

Removing insulation isn’t glamorous, but it is the first step toward better energy efficiency, comfort, and peace of mind. Do it right, and you set your home up for decades of toasty winters and cool summers.

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Need help removing insulation in Connecticut?

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Reach out to Nealon Insulation and let’s talk about your project. We’ll bring the tools, the crew, and the “don’t-worry-we’ve-seen-worse” attitude.

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Let’s get one thing out of the way real quick: water is great for a lot of things—gardens, coffee, post-game showers—but it’s not great for insulation.

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Wet insulation is like a soggy sandwich: unappetizing, ineffective, and a potential breeding ground for nasty stuff you don’t want in your walls.

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So what do you do if your insulation gets wet?

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First, don’t panic. This happens more often than you’d think—burst pipes, roof leaks, basement flooding, a freak Nor’easter blowing sideways rain into your attic vents—you name it, we’ve seen it. And trust me, there’s a right way to handle it depending on the type of insulation in your home.

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1. Spray Foam Insulation

What to know:
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If you’ve got spray foam insulation—open or closed cell—you’re probably in better shape than most. Closed-cell is the superhero here: it’s highly water-resistant, mold-resistant, and acts like a shield. We’ve seen cases where water hit the foam and was actually diverted away from the cavity, like it hit a raincoat.

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But—and this is important—just because spray foam doesn’t absorb water doesn’t mean your studs and sheathing don’t. If water gets trapped behind foam with nowhere to go, you’ve still got a problem. That’s why proper ventilation and airflow matter, even with foam.

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What to do:

• Inspect the area to make sure no water is pooling or trapped behind the foam.
• If it’s closed-cell and the structure is sound, you’re likely good to go.
• Open-cell is a bit more breathable and can retain moisture—if it’s been saturated for a while, it may need to come out.

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Mike’s take:
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If I had a nickel for every time closed-cell spray foam saved someone from a full-gut remediation job, I’d have at least enough for a steak dinner and a bottle of decent red. But don’t get cocky—foam still needs airflow to let framing dry if something does go wrong.

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2. Cellulose Insulation

What to know:
Cellulose is made from recycled paper and treated with fire- and mold-resistant chemicals. That gets it a long way—but yeah, it’s still paper. And paper does soak up water.

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Here’s the kicker though: when properly vented and installed, cellulose can wick moisture and dry out. It’s breathable. That’s one of the key reasons we like it—it manages moisture instead of trapping it. But that only works when the moisture is minor and the conditions are right.

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What to do:

• If cellulose is fully saturated, especially in a wall or ceiling cavity, it usually needs to be removed.
• Small damp spots might be salvageable if caught early and thoroughly dried—but don’t roll the dice unless you know airflow is solid and drying is happening fast.

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Mike’s take:
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We once opened up a wall in a coastal home where the vent flashing failed. The cellulose was soaked—mashed potatoes. Smelled like low tide in August. We vacuumed it out, dried the cavity with fans, reinsulated properly, and the homeowner went from worried sick to sleeping like a baby.
Moral of the story? Cellulose is great—but it can’t work miracles if it’s left to stew.

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3. Fiberglass Insulation

What to know:
Fiberglass doesn’t absorb water like cellulose does—but it holds onto it like a wet sponge. And while the glass itself won’t mold, the paper backing and surrounding wood sure will. If fiberglass gets wet and sits too long, it basically becomes useless. No R-value, no comfort, and a potential mold farm.

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What to do:

• If fiberglass batts are soaked, remove them—especially if they’ve been wet for more than 48 hours.
• If it’s loose-fill fiberglass and just mildly damp (like a light attic leak), you might be able to dry and fluff it—but be 100% sure there’s no hidden moisture or mold risk.

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Mike’s take:
Had a job in Guilford where a raccoon popped off a roof vent and a storm soaked the attic. By the time the homeowner noticed, we were replacing not just the insulation but the roof decking and half the attic structure.
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Lesson: Moisture waits for no one. Catch it fast, fix it faster.

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The Bottom Line

If your insulation gets wet:

• Act quickly – Time is the enemy.
• Inspect thoroughly – Don’t assume “just a little damp” means it’s fine.
• Replace when in doubt – Especially cellulose and fiberglass.
• Fix the root cause – Insulation isn’t a water detector. It’s supposed to keep you warm, not soak up storms.

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And if you’re not sure what you’re dealing with—give us a shout. We’ll take a look, tell you the truth (no fluff), and help get your home sealed up the right way.

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👉 Contact Nealon Insulation. We’ve been keeping Connecticut homes dry, tight, and comfortable since 1977. Let’s keep yours that way, too.

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Most people treat garage insulation like a throwaway decision—until their “man cave” turns into a meat locker in January or a sweat lodge in July. If you spend any time out there—lifting weights, tinkering with tools, or just trying to keep the pipes from freezing—then yeah, insulation matters. A lot.

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At Nealon Insulation, we’ve insulated enough garages across Connecticut to know what works, what doesn’t, and what’s a waste of money. Let’s get into it.

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Why Garage Insulation Is Worth It

We once helped a homeowner on Shore Road who had a killer garage workshop setup—but was working in it wearing three layers like he was prepping for Everest. Sound familiar?

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Insulating your garage properly will:

• Keep winter cold and summer heat out
• Lower your energy bills
• Make the space usable year-round (hello, home gym or office)
• Protect pipes from freezing
• Cut down on drafts entering your home from the garage

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Our Take on the Best Garage Insulation Options

After decades in the game, here’s how we rank the contenders:

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1. Blown-In Cellulose (Our Favorite for Most Garages)

Cellulose is made from recycled paper treated to resist fire and pests. It’s dense, eco-friendly, and fills every gap.

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📍 Perfect for: Finished garage walls and ceilings

Pros:

• Fills all the nooks and crannies (no cold spots)
• Great sound dampening (band practice, anyone?)
• Doesn’t sag over time
• Environmentally friendly

Cons:

• Needs wall covering (drywall, paneling, etc.)
• Not a DIY material—call us in

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2. Fiberglass Batts (Budget-Friendly, but Be Careful)

The classic pink stuff. You’ve seen it. You might’ve even tried to install it.

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📍 Good for: Unfinished garages if you’re on a tight budget

Pros:

• Cheap
• DIY-friendly (if you know what you’re doing)

Cons:

• Gaps = cold air leaks
• Not great in humid areas (hello, mold)
• You need a lot of it to match the performance of cellulose or foam

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3. Rigid Foam Board (Awesome for Garage Doors and Walls)

Foam panels are clean, simple, and surprisingly effective.

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📍 Great for: Garage doors, ceilings, unfinished walls

Pros:

• High R-value for the thickness
• Moisture-resistant
• Clean install

Cons:

• Needs drywall covering for fire safety
• Pricier than fiberglass
• Requires careful sealing to be effective

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4. Spray Foam (Top-Shelf Stuff for Living Space Conversions)

If you’re turning your garage into a full-time living area—family room, in-law suite, etc.—spray foam is elite.

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📍 Ideal for: Converting garage to conditioned living space

Pros:

• Highest R-value
• Seals air leaks in one go
• Great moisture barrier (important near the coast)

Cons:

• Expensive
• Not DIY-friendly
• Needs pro install and ventilation

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Don’t Skip the Garage Door

We see this constantly: people insulate all the walls and ceiling, then leave their giant garage door untouched. That’s like putting on a winter jacket with no zipper.

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Options:

• Foam board kits made for garage doors
• Reflective barriers
• Or upgrade to an insulated door if yours is ancient

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So, What’s the Best Insulation for Your Garage?

Here’s our quick take:

• Blown-in cellulose is your best bet for finished garages.
• Foam board is great for doors and exposed walls.
• Spray foam is worth the splurge if you’re converting the space.

We helped a family on East Main Street who were trying to heat their workshop with a space heater. After we installed cellulose, they barely needed the heater at all. That’s the power of doing insulation right.

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Need Help? We Got You.

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At Nealon Insulation, we don’t just stuff walls with insulation. We solve problems. If you’re ready to make your garage usable year-round, we’re ready to help—no matter the setup.

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📞 Give us a call for a free consultation.

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Comfort. Efficiency. No compromises. That’s the Nealon way.

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