How to Remove Insulation (Without Making a Total Mess)
So, you’ve got old insulation that needs to go. Maybe you’re renovating, maybe there was a leak, maybe a raccoon made itself a cozy little condo up there (don’t laugh—it happens). Whatever the reason, removing insulation isn’t rocket science—but it is one of those jobs that can go sideways real fast if you’re not prepared.
Let’s walk through what you need to know to remove insulation safely, efficiently, and without turning your house into a dust storm.
First Things First: Why Are You Removing It?
If your insulation is wet, moldy, critter-infested, or just plain useless, you’re doing the right thing. Damaged insulation doesn’t just tank your home’s efficiency—it can affect your indoor air quality too. And in Connecticut, where winter means business, that matters.
Know What You're Dealing With
There are three big players in the insulation world, and each one needs to be handled a little differently:
1. Fiberglass Batts or Rolls
These are the pink or yellow fluffy mats stuffed between your ceiling joists or wall studs. Common in older CT homes. They're easy to remove—but itchy as hell.
How to remove it:
- Suit up: gloves, goggles, long sleeves, and a quality mask (fiberglass is no joke if it gets in your lungs).
- Roll it up and bag it. Gently. Try not to stir up dust.
- Use a HEPA vac to clean up leftover fibers.
2. Cellulose Insulation
Blown-in gray stuff made from recycled paper. We use it all the time in CT shoreline homes because it’s eco-friendly and great at sealing tiny gaps—but if it gets wet or moldy, it clumps up and needs to go.
How to remove it:
- Rent a high-powered vacuum from an insulation contractor or equipment rental place.
- Suck it out from the attic or wall cavities. (Yes, it's loud. Yes, it's dusty. Yes, it works.)
- Bag the debris in contractor-grade bags. It gets heavy, fast.
Mike’s Tip: Once removed, this is a great opportunity to air seal your attic before putting new insulation in. Think of it as a fresh start.
3. Spray Foam Insulation
This one’s the tough guy. Closed-cell spray foam is basically glued to your house. It’s amazing stuff when installed right—but if you have to remove it (say, during a renovation or due to water damage), it’s going to take some elbow grease.
How to remove it:
- Use a reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool to cut it out in chunks.
- Chisel and scrape any stubborn spots.
- Don’t go crazy—sometimes it’s better to replace the whole panel or board it’s attached to.
Safety First, Always
Whether you're in Branford, Guilford, or somewhere up in West Hartford, remember: insulation removal stirs up dust, allergens, and sometimes worse. Mold spores, rodent droppings, old construction debris… it’s not a clean job.
- Ventilate the area if possible.
- Don’t skimp on PPE—N95 or better masks are a must.
- Seal off nearby rooms with plastic sheeting to keep mess contained.
Should You DIY It?
If it’s a small area, sure—have at it. But if you're looking at a whole attic or dealing with water or pest damage, it’s worth calling in the pros. At Nealon Insulation, we’ve safely removed insulation from homes all over Connecticut, from old shoreline cottages to newer builds. We bring the vacuums, safety gear, and most importantly—the experience to do it right.
Final Thought
Removing insulation isn’t glamorous, but it is the first step toward better energy efficiency, comfort, and peace of mind. Do it right, and you set your home up for decades of toasty winters and cool summers.
Need help removing insulation in Connecticut?
Reach out to Nealon Insulation and let’s talk about your project. We’ll bring the tools, the crew, and the “don’t-worry-we’ve-seen-worse” attitude.
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What To Do If Your Insulation Gets Wet
Let’s get one thing out of the way real quick: water is great for a lot of things—gardens, coffee, post-game showers—but it’s not great for insulation.Wet insulation is like a soggy sandwich: unappetizing, ineffective, and a potential breeding ground for nasty stuff you don’t want in your walls.
Let’s get one thing out of the way real quick: water is great for a lot of things—gardens, coffee, post-game showers—but it’s not great for insulation.
Wet insulation is like a soggy sandwich: unappetizing, ineffective, and a potential breeding ground for nasty stuff you don’t want in your walls.
So what do you do if your insulation gets wet?
First, don’t panic. This happens more often than you’d think—burst pipes, roof leaks, basement flooding, a freak Nor’easter blowing sideways rain into your attic vents—you name it, we’ve seen it. And trust me, there’s a right way to handle it depending on the type of insulation in your home.
1. Spray Foam Insulation
What to know:
If you’ve got spray foam insulation—open or closed cell—you’re probably in better shape than most. Closed-cell is the superhero here: it’s highly water-resistant, mold-resistant, and acts like a shield. We’ve seen cases where water hit the foam and was actually diverted away from the cavity, like it hit a raincoat.
But—and this is important—just because spray foam doesn’t absorb water doesn’t mean your studs and sheathing don’t. If water gets trapped behind foam with nowhere to go, you’ve still got a problem. That’s why proper ventilation and airflow matter, even with foam.
What to do:
- Inspect the area to make sure no water is pooling or trapped behind the foam.
- If it’s closed-cell and the structure is sound, you’re likely good to go.
- Open-cell is a bit more breathable and can retain moisture—if it’s been saturated for a while, it may need to come out.
Mike’s take:
If I had a nickel for every time closed-cell spray foam saved someone from a full-gut remediation job, I’d have at least enough for a steak dinner and a bottle of decent red. But don’t get cocky—foam still needs airflow to let framing dry if something does go wrong.
2. Cellulose Insulation
What to know:
Cellulose is made from recycled paper and treated with fire- and mold-resistant chemicals. That gets it a long way—but yeah, it’s still paper. And paper does soak up water.
Here’s the kicker though: when properly vented and installed, cellulose can wick moisture and dry out. It’s breathable. That’s one of the key reasons we like it—it manages moisture instead of trapping it. But that only works when the moisture is minor and the conditions are right.
What to do:
- If cellulose is fully saturated, especially in a wall or ceiling cavity, it usually needs to be removed.
- Small damp spots might be salvageable if caught early and thoroughly dried—but don’t roll the dice unless you know airflow is solid and drying is happening fast.
Mike’s take:
We once opened up a wall in a coastal home where the vent flashing failed. The cellulose was soaked—mashed potatoes. Smelled like low tide in August. We vacuumed it out, dried the cavity with fans, reinsulated properly, and the homeowner went from worried sick to sleeping like a baby.
Moral of the story? Cellulose is great—but it can’t work miracles if it’s left to stew.
3. Fiberglass Insulation
What to know:
Fiberglass doesn’t absorb water like cellulose does—but it holds onto it like a wet sponge. And while the glass itself won’t mold, the paper backing and surrounding wood sure will. If fiberglass gets wet and sits too long, it basically becomes useless. No R-value, no comfort, and a potential mold farm.
What to do:
- If fiberglass batts are soaked, remove them—especially if they’ve been wet for more than 48 hours.
- If it’s loose-fill fiberglass and just mildly damp (like a light attic leak), you might be able to dry and fluff it—but be 100% sure there’s no hidden moisture or mold risk.
Mike’s take:
Had a job in Guilford where a raccoon popped off a roof vent and a storm soaked the attic. By the time the homeowner noticed, we were replacing not just the insulation but the roof decking and half the attic structure.
Lesson: Moisture waits for no one. Catch it fast, fix it faster.
The Bottom Line
If your insulation gets wet:
- Act quickly – Time is the enemy.
- Inspect thoroughly – Don’t assume “just a little damp” means it’s fine.
- Replace when in doubt – Especially cellulose and fiberglass.
- Fix the root cause – Insulation isn’t a water detector. It’s supposed to keep you warm, not soak up storms.
And if you’re not sure what you’re dealing with—give us a shout. We’ll take a look, tell you the truth (no fluff), and help get your home sealed up the right way.
👉 Contact Nealon Insulation. We’ve been keeping Connecticut homes dry, tight, and comfortable since 1977. Let’s keep yours that way, too.
What Insulation Is Best for the Garage?
You know, in my 47 years of insulating homes across Clinton and Connecticut, I've crawled through more garages than I can count. And let me tell you - most folks treat their garage insulation as an afterthought, then wonder why their utility bills are through the roof or why their "man cave" feels like an icebox in January!
Most people treat garage insulation like a throwaway decision—until their “man cave” turns into a meat locker in January or a sweat lodge in July. If you spend any time out there—lifting weights, tinkering with tools, or just trying to keep the pipes from freezing—then yeah, insulation matters. A lot.
At Nealon Insulation, we’ve insulated enough garages across Connecticut to know what works, what doesn’t, and what’s a waste of money. Let’s get into it.
Why Garage Insulation Is Worth It
We once helped a homeowner on Shore Road who had a killer garage workshop setup—but was working in it wearing three layers like he was prepping for Everest. Sound familiar?
Insulating your garage properly will:
- Keep winter cold and summer heat out
- Lower your energy bills
- Make the space usable year-round (hello, home gym or office)
- Protect pipes from freezing
- Cut down on drafts entering your home from the garage
Our Take on the Best Garage Insulation Options
After decades in the game, here’s how we rank the contenders:
1. Blown-In Cellulose (Our Favorite for Most Garages)
Cellulose is made from recycled paper treated to resist fire and pests. It’s dense, eco-friendly, and fills every gap.
📍 Perfect for: Finished garage walls and ceilings
Pros:
- Fills all the nooks and crannies (no cold spots)
- Great sound dampening (band practice, anyone?)
- Doesn’t sag over time
- Environmentally friendly
Cons:
- Needs wall covering (drywall, paneling, etc.)
- Not a DIY material—call us in
2. Fiberglass Batts (Budget-Friendly, but Be Careful)
The classic pink stuff. You’ve seen it. You might’ve even tried to install it.
📍 Good for: Unfinished garages if you’re on a tight budget
Pros:
- Cheap
- DIY-friendly (if you know what you’re doing)
Cons:
- Gaps = cold air leaks
- Not great in humid areas (hello, mold)
- You need a lot of it to match the performance of cellulose or foam
3. Rigid Foam Board (Awesome for Garage Doors and Walls)
Foam panels are clean, simple, and surprisingly effective.
📍 Great for: Garage doors, ceilings, unfinished walls
Pros:
- High R-value for the thickness
- Moisture-resistant
- Clean install
Cons:
- Needs drywall covering for fire safety
- Pricier than fiberglass
- Requires careful sealing to be effective
4. Spray Foam (Top-Shelf Stuff for Living Space Conversions)
If you’re turning your garage into a full-time living area—family room, in-law suite, etc.—spray foam is elite.
📍 Ideal for: Converting garage to conditioned living space
Pros:
- Highest R-value
- Seals air leaks in one go
- Great moisture barrier (important near the coast)
Cons:
- Expensive
- Not DIY-friendly
- Needs pro install and ventilation
Don’t Skip the Garage Door
We see this constantly: people insulate all the walls and ceiling, then leave their giant garage door untouched. That’s like putting on a winter jacket with no zipper.
Options:
- Foam board kits made for garage doors
- Reflective barriers
- Or upgrade to an insulated door if yours is ancient
So, What’s the Best Insulation for Your Garage?
Here’s our quick take:
- Blown-in cellulose is your best bet for finished garages.
- Foam board is great for doors and exposed walls.
- Spray foam is worth the splurge if you’re converting the space.
We helped a family on East Main Street who were trying to heat their workshop with a space heater. After we installed cellulose, they barely needed the heater at all. That’s the power of doing insulation right.
Need Help? We Got You.
At Nealon Insulation, we don’t just stuff walls with insulation. We solve problems. If you’re ready to make your garage usable year-round, we’re ready to help—no matter the setup.
📞 Give us a call for a free consultation.
Comfort. Efficiency. No compromises. That’s the Nealon way.
Are Insulation Baffles Necessary? Understanding Their Role in Attic Ventilation
After climbing through countless attics in Clinton and surrounding communities over our 47 years in business, I've seen firsthand what happens when folks overlook those little plastic channels we call insulation baffles. You might be wondering if they're really necessary or just another item on the contractor's invoice. Well, pull up a chair, because I'm about to share what I've learned from nearly five decades of keeping Connecticut homes comfortable.
After crawling through thousands of attics around Clinton and the shoreline for nearly five decades, I’ve seen it all: moldy rafters, ice dams the size of surfboards, and insulation jobs that looked more like art projects gone wrong. And let me tell you—skipping baffles? That’s one of the biggest mistakes I see.
So if you’re wondering whether insulation baffles are actually necessary or just another upsell from the contractor, you’re in the right place.
First off, what the heck is a baffle?
Insulation baffles (some folks call them rafter vents or chute vents) are lightweight plastic, cardboard, or foam channels that go up in your attic—right where your roof meets the soffits. Their one job? Keep air moving through your attic the way it’s supposed to.
You’ve probably got soffit vents on your house. Those let fresh air into the attic. But here’s the catch: if you blow insulation all the way to the roof’s edge without a baffle, you’re smothering that vent like a pillow over a campfire.
Why do baffles matter?
Let me break it down like I would on a job site:
1. They keep your insulation from becoming a soggy, moldy mess
When you block airflow, moisture builds up. That means mold, wood rot, and insulation that starts smelling like a wet basement. I was at a place on Liberty Street where the attic was basically a rainforest in July—no baffles, no airflow, no good.
2. They’re the lungs of your attic
Think of baffles like nostrils for your attic. They let fresh air in from the soffits and let hot, stale air out through the ridge vent. Without them, your attic is holding its breath—and your whole house suffers.
3. They cut your energy bills
No joke. If your attic overheats in summer, your AC runs harder. In winter, poor airflow leads to ice dams that can rip your gutters clean off. A properly ventilated attic (yes, with baffles) helps your insulation perform the way it’s supposed to—keeping your house comfortable and your energy bills lower.
4. They protect your roof
Heat and moisture are the enemies of a healthy roof. I’ve seen shingles curl up and die years before their time because the attic underneath was baking them from the inside out. Don’t let your roof rot from below.
When do you need baffles?
In my professional opinion? If you’ve got soffit vents and you’re adding insulation, you need baffles. Here’s when they’re a must:
- ✅ You’re upgrading attic insulation (especially blown-in cellulose)
- ✅ Your attic feels like a sauna in summer
- ✅ You’ve seen mold, water stains, or that funky attic smell
- ✅ You get ice dams in the winter (huge red flag!)
How we do baffles at Nealon
This ain’t our first attic. When we install baffles:
- We locate each rafter bay and make sure soffit vents are clear.
- We position baffles from soffit up the roof line, giving air a clear path.
- We staple 'em in securely to handle New England weather.
- We make sure the insulation never blocks the airflow.
We check it twice, like Santa with a clipboard.
Bottom line? Baffles are a no-brainer.
They cost a few bucks, take a little time to install, and save you thousands in potential repairs and energy bills. I once had a homeowner on Beach Park Road call me up two years after an install just to say thanks—no more ice dams, and their cooling bills dropped nearly 30%.
That’s what good insulation—and good airflow—can do.
Let’s fix your attic the right way.
At Nealon, we don’t just blow in insulation and peace out. We look at the whole system—ventilation, air sealing, and comfort. That’s why homeowners in Clinton and across Connecticut have trusted us since 1978.
📞 Ready to talk? Click HERE to schedule a free attic assessment. No pressure, no hard sell—just honest advice and proven results.
Let’s make your attic breathe easy.
Let's Work Together
Ready to transform your home into an energy-efficient haven? Schedule your free energy assessment today and experience the Nealon difference for yourself.