What Insulation Reduces Your Carbon Footprint?
When choosing insulation, energy efficiency is just one factor to consider. If you want to reduce your home's carbon footprint, it's important to look at the environmental impact of the insulation materials themselves. Some insulation types require more energy to produce, while others are made from recycled or renewable materials with a lower carbon impact.
The Best Low-Carbon Insulation Options
A few insulation materials have an extremely low environmental impact, but they are not widely available in Connecticut:
- Cork – A natural, renewable material that provides good insulation and soundproofing. However, it’s expensive and not commonly used in residential insulation.
- Hempcrete – Made from hemp fibers and lime, hempcrete is breathable, mold-resistant, and has a negative carbon footprint. However, it’s more common in specialized eco-friendly construction.
- Straw Bale – This renewable insulation has excellent thermal performance, but it requires specific building methods and is rarely used in existing homes.
The Best Practical Choice: Cellulose Insulation
While cork, hempcrete, and straw bale have great sustainability benefits, they are not widely available or practical for most homeowners. The best low-carbon insulation choice that balances performance, affordability, and sustainability is cellulose insulation.
According to Green Maine Homes, cellulose insulation has the lowest carbon footprint of the commonly available insulation options. Here’s why:
- Made from 85% recycled paper – Unlike fiberglass or foam, cellulose is primarily composed of recycled materials, reducing landfill waste.
- Low energy production – It requires far less energy to manufacture compared to fiberglass or spray foam, meaning lower emissions.
- Excellent thermal performance – By reducing heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer, cellulose helps lower energy use and carbon emissions.
- Biodegradable and non-toxic – Unlike spray foam, which contains petroleum-based chemicals, cellulose is a safer, eco-friendly option.
Why Choose Nealon Insulation?
At Nealon Insulation, we specialize in cellulose insulation, making homes along the Connecticut shoreline more energy-efficient while reducing environmental impact. With 48 years of experience, we understand how to properly insulate homes to maximize comfort and savings while using sustainable materials.
If you want to insulate your home with an eco-friendly, high-performance material, contact Nealon Insulation today to learn more about cellulose insulation!
Credit for picture: https://greenmainehomes.com/blog/choosing-the-right-insulation
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What Insulation Is Best for the Garage?
You know, in my 47 years of insulating homes across Clinton and Connecticut, I've crawled through more garages than I can count. And let me tell you - most folks treat their garage insulation as an afterthought, then wonder why their utility bills are through the roof or why their "man cave" feels like an icebox in January!
Most people treat garage insulation like a throwaway decision—until their “man cave” turns into a meat locker in January or a sweat lodge in July. If you spend any time out there—lifting weights, tinkering with tools, or just trying to keep the pipes from freezing—then yeah, insulation matters. A lot.
At Nealon Insulation, we’ve insulated enough garages across Connecticut to know what works, what doesn’t, and what’s a waste of money. Let’s get into it.
Why Garage Insulation Is Worth It
We once helped a homeowner on Shore Road who had a killer garage workshop setup—but was working in it wearing three layers like he was prepping for Everest. Sound familiar?
Insulating your garage properly will:
- Keep winter cold and summer heat out
- Lower your energy bills
- Make the space usable year-round (hello, home gym or office)
- Protect pipes from freezing
- Cut down on drafts entering your home from the garage
Our Take on the Best Garage Insulation Options
After decades in the game, here’s how we rank the contenders:
1. Blown-In Cellulose (Our Favorite for Most Garages)
Cellulose is made from recycled paper treated to resist fire and pests. It’s dense, eco-friendly, and fills every gap.
📍 Perfect for: Finished garage walls and ceilings
Pros:
- Fills all the nooks and crannies (no cold spots)
- Great sound dampening (band practice, anyone?)
- Doesn’t sag over time
- Environmentally friendly
Cons:
- Needs wall covering (drywall, paneling, etc.)
- Not a DIY material—call us in
2. Fiberglass Batts (Budget-Friendly, but Be Careful)
The classic pink stuff. You’ve seen it. You might’ve even tried to install it.
📍 Good for: Unfinished garages if you’re on a tight budget
Pros:
- Cheap
- DIY-friendly (if you know what you’re doing)
Cons:
- Gaps = cold air leaks
- Not great in humid areas (hello, mold)
- You need a lot of it to match the performance of cellulose or foam
3. Rigid Foam Board (Awesome for Garage Doors and Walls)
Foam panels are clean, simple, and surprisingly effective.
📍 Great for: Garage doors, ceilings, unfinished walls
Pros:
- High R-value for the thickness
- Moisture-resistant
- Clean install
Cons:
- Needs drywall covering for fire safety
- Pricier than fiberglass
- Requires careful sealing to be effective
4. Spray Foam (Top-Shelf Stuff for Living Space Conversions)
If you’re turning your garage into a full-time living area—family room, in-law suite, etc.—spray foam is elite.
📍 Ideal for: Converting garage to conditioned living space
Pros:
- Highest R-value
- Seals air leaks in one go
- Great moisture barrier (important near the coast)
Cons:
- Expensive
- Not DIY-friendly
- Needs pro install and ventilation
Don’t Skip the Garage Door
We see this constantly: people insulate all the walls and ceiling, then leave their giant garage door untouched. That’s like putting on a winter jacket with no zipper.
Options:
- Foam board kits made for garage doors
- Reflective barriers
- Or upgrade to an insulated door if yours is ancient
So, What’s the Best Insulation for Your Garage?
Here’s our quick take:
- Blown-in cellulose is your best bet for finished garages.
- Foam board is great for doors and exposed walls.
- Spray foam is worth the splurge if you’re converting the space.
We helped a family on East Main Street who were trying to heat their workshop with a space heater. After we installed cellulose, they barely needed the heater at all. That’s the power of doing insulation right.
Need Help? We Got You.
At Nealon Insulation, we don’t just stuff walls with insulation. We solve problems. If you’re ready to make your garage usable year-round, we’re ready to help—no matter the setup.
📞 Give us a call for a free consultation.
Comfort. Efficiency. No compromises. That’s the Nealon way.
Are Insulation Baffles Necessary? Understanding Their Role in Attic Ventilation
After climbing through countless attics in Clinton and surrounding communities over our 47 years in business, I've seen firsthand what happens when folks overlook those little plastic channels we call insulation baffles. You might be wondering if they're really necessary or just another item on the contractor's invoice. Well, pull up a chair, because I'm about to share what I've learned from nearly five decades of keeping Connecticut homes comfortable.
After crawling through thousands of attics around Clinton and the shoreline for nearly five decades, I’ve seen it all: moldy rafters, ice dams the size of surfboards, and insulation jobs that looked more like art projects gone wrong. And let me tell you—skipping baffles? That’s one of the biggest mistakes I see.
So if you’re wondering whether insulation baffles are actually necessary or just another upsell from the contractor, you’re in the right place.
First off, what the heck is a baffle?
Insulation baffles (some folks call them rafter vents or chute vents) are lightweight plastic, cardboard, or foam channels that go up in your attic—right where your roof meets the soffits. Their one job? Keep air moving through your attic the way it’s supposed to.
You’ve probably got soffit vents on your house. Those let fresh air into the attic. But here’s the catch: if you blow insulation all the way to the roof’s edge without a baffle, you’re smothering that vent like a pillow over a campfire.
Why do baffles matter?
Let me break it down like I would on a job site:
1. They keep your insulation from becoming a soggy, moldy mess
When you block airflow, moisture builds up. That means mold, wood rot, and insulation that starts smelling like a wet basement. I was at a place on Liberty Street where the attic was basically a rainforest in July—no baffles, no airflow, no good.
2. They’re the lungs of your attic
Think of baffles like nostrils for your attic. They let fresh air in from the soffits and let hot, stale air out through the ridge vent. Without them, your attic is holding its breath—and your whole house suffers.
3. They cut your energy bills
No joke. If your attic overheats in summer, your AC runs harder. In winter, poor airflow leads to ice dams that can rip your gutters clean off. A properly ventilated attic (yes, with baffles) helps your insulation perform the way it’s supposed to—keeping your house comfortable and your energy bills lower.
4. They protect your roof
Heat and moisture are the enemies of a healthy roof. I’ve seen shingles curl up and die years before their time because the attic underneath was baking them from the inside out. Don’t let your roof rot from below.
When do you need baffles?
In my professional opinion? If you’ve got soffit vents and you’re adding insulation, you need baffles. Here’s when they’re a must:
- ✅ You’re upgrading attic insulation (especially blown-in cellulose)
- ✅ Your attic feels like a sauna in summer
- ✅ You’ve seen mold, water stains, or that funky attic smell
- ✅ You get ice dams in the winter (huge red flag!)
How we do baffles at Nealon
This ain’t our first attic. When we install baffles:
- We locate each rafter bay and make sure soffit vents are clear.
- We position baffles from soffit up the roof line, giving air a clear path.
- We staple 'em in securely to handle New England weather.
- We make sure the insulation never blocks the airflow.
We check it twice, like Santa with a clipboard.
Bottom line? Baffles are a no-brainer.
They cost a few bucks, take a little time to install, and save you thousands in potential repairs and energy bills. I once had a homeowner on Beach Park Road call me up two years after an install just to say thanks—no more ice dams, and their cooling bills dropped nearly 30%.
That’s what good insulation—and good airflow—can do.
Let’s fix your attic the right way.
At Nealon, we don’t just blow in insulation and peace out. We look at the whole system—ventilation, air sealing, and comfort. That’s why homeowners in Clinton and across Connecticut have trusted us since 1978.
📞 Ready to talk? Click HERE to schedule a free attic assessment. No pressure, no hard sell—just honest advice and proven results.
Let’s make your attic breathe easy.
Are Insulation Boards Flammable? Understanding Fire Safety in Insulation Materials
When choosing insulation for your home or building, fire safety is a crucial consideration. Many homeowners and contractors wonder: Are insulation boards flammable? The short answer is it depends on the type of insulation board used. Different insulation materials have varying levels of fire resistance, and understanding their properties can help you make an informed decision.
If you’re picking insulation for your home or a job site, fire safety isn’t just a fine-print detail—it’s something you need to think about up front. I’ve been in this business since bell bottoms were still in style, and let me tell you: not all insulation boards are created equal when it comes to handling heat.
So, are insulation boards flammable? Well… some of them absolutely are. Others? Built like a fireman’s jacket. Here’s the no-fluff rundown on the main types we work with, and what you need to know to keep your space safe.
1. Polyisocyanurate (PIR): The Overachiever With a Caveat
PIR boards are stiff, high-performance foam panels—popular in walls, roofs, and anyone looking for big R-values in a slim package.
🔥 Will it burn? Eventually, yes. PIR boards are less flammable than other foam boards because they’ve got fire retardants baked in. They tend to char instead of going up like a tiki torch. But hit them with serious heat, and they’ll still catch and send off toxic smoke.
✅ What to do: Always cover PIR with a fire-rated barrier—like drywall. Never leave it exposed in finished spaces.
2. XPS: Tough Against Moisture, Not Against Flame
Extruded polystyrene (XPS) is what you’ll find behind a lot of foundation walls and under slabs. Great for water resistance, not so great for fire.
🔥 Will it burn? Like dry pine in August. Even treated XPS can ignite and gives off thick, nasty smoke when it does.
✅ What to do: XPS should never be left uncovered indoors. Wrap it up tight behind something non-combustible—gypsum board is your friend here.
3. EPS: Cheap, Light, and Quick to Catch
Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is kind of the little brother to XPS—lightweight, inexpensive, and used in packaging, walls, and roofs.
🔥 Will it burn? Oh yeah. Faster than XPS, in fact. It’s got a lower melting point and will absolutely feed a fire if you let it.
✅ What to do: If you’re going to use EPS, bury it completely behind non-combustible materials. Think of it like kindling—treat it with caution.
4. Mineral Wool (aka Rockwool): Built From Lava, Basically
Now we’re talking. Mineral wool is made from spun rock and industrial slag. It’s dense, durable, and basically fireproof.
🔥 Will it burn? Not a chance. It’s non-combustible and holds up to temps north of 1,800°F. I’ve seen it used in fire-rated assemblies, and it doesn’t even blink.
✅ What to do: If fire resistance is your top concern, this is your MVP. No special treatment needed—install and sleep easy.
5. Fiberglass: The Old Reliable (With a Caveat)
Fiberglass boards are another non-combustible option made from—you guessed it—glass fibers. Great for ductwork, ceilings, and wall cavities.
🔥 Will it burn? The glass itself won’t. But if your board has a kraft paper or foil facing? That can ignite if exposed to flame or heat.
✅ What to do: Keep faced fiberglass away from open flames, light fixtures, or anything that gets hot.
Fire Safety 101 (From a Guy Who’s Seen Some Things)
Whatever insulation you’re working with, there are a few universal rules that’ll keep you out of trouble:
✔ Cover your foam. XPS and EPS should never be exposed in a finished space. Always wrap ‘em up in drywall or cement board.
✔ Know your codes. Every town has its own rules. Follow your local building codes like your roof depends on it—because it does.
✔ Vent properly. Trapped heat can turn a safe attic into a fire trap. Good airflow helps prevent that.
✔ Install smoke detectors. Especially near new insulation work. Cheap insurance.
✔ Use fire-rated products when you can. Mineral wool and fiberglass might cost a bit more, but they’re way safer in a pinch.
So… Are Insulation Boards Flammable?
Some are. Some aren’t. If you’re using foam—like XPS or EPS—just assume it burns and plan accordingly. If you want the peace of mind that comes with fire resistance, mineral wool or fiberglass is the way to go.
And if you're not sure what makes sense for your home? That’s why we’re here. At Nealon, we’ve been insulating Connecticut homes since 1977. We know the products, we know the codes, and we know how to do the job right the first time.
📞 Give us a shout if you’ve got questions or need a quote. We’re happy to walk you through your options—no pressure, no BS. Just honest advice from folks who’ve been doing this for nearly 50 years.
Let’s make sure your insulation does its job without becoming a fire risk.
Let's Work Together
Ready to transform your home into an energy-efficient haven? Schedule your free energy assessment today and experience the Nealon difference for yourself.